It was not a trip for everyone - certainly not for the faint of heart, weak of mind, or the soft of butt. I was told that "there be dragons" hidden in the Great Smokey Mountains of Tennessee in a location known to many as Deal's Gap. I have heard of individuals who have attempted to "slay the dragon" and some were fortunate enough to return as victors against this treacherous beast. It sounded like a job for the Potomac Area Road Riders (PARR) and I knew we were definitely needed there. So in the summer of 2000, I sent word out for volunteers for the 4-day mission. Within hours, 15 of PARR's finest and heartiest riders answered the call and were prepared to follow their leader (yours truly, Road Captain Mike) into battle. This is our story.

 DAY 1 - Destination - Bluefield, West Virginia

             Before the sun rose on a late August day, we rallied our troops in the small Virginia town of Gainesville located on Route 29 approximately 30 miles southwest of our Nation's Capital. Riders were briefed on the plan for the day and the rules of the road. We were over 600 miles away from Deal's Gap (via our non-direct but scenic route) and that would mean a layover after approximately 325 miles. The required stop would help to ensure that everyone got plenty of rest and relaxation for the main event that would take place the following day. So with the sun rising in the early morning sky and temperatures in the mid 70's, our troops headed south on Lee Highway, Route 29.

            A little after 7 AM we arrived at our breakfast stop, Aunt Sarah's Pancake House, in Charlottesville, Virginia. Afterwards we headed up Afton Mountain opting for US250 rather than its parallel route -Interstate 64. At the top of the mountain we entered the Blue Ridge Parkway and continued heading south to Roanoke. At an overlook, we adjusted clothing to accommodate the cooler temperatures being encountered at the higher altitude and took turns taking pictures and telling stories.

            We ended our scenic Parkway ride about 60 miles south of Afton Mountain as we exited onto VA 130 and headed west. After a pit stop in Glascow we got onto Interstate 81. The superslab was a necessary part of the trip in order to stay on schedule. Lunch loomed and we couldn't get past 'Country Cookn' at exit 150.

            Afterward we continued down Interstate 81. About 10 miles out, some of the group stopped to don rain gear as we encountered scattered showers of varying intensity. Other members laughed in the face of the storm clouds without rain suits. Rain zig-zagged Interstate 81 for about a half hour. There would be a mile of rain followed by a stretch of sunshine with bone-dry highway. At Fort Chiswell we stopped for gas and to get out of the 'sweat suits' as the clouds disappeared and the temperature shot into the 90's.

            At Wythville, we headed west on Interstate 77 toward Bluefield, West Virginia and our first night's accommodations. One might wonder why we chose Bluefield since it is somewhat out of the path of our southern destination. Well, it so happened that this was also the weekend for the NASCAR races in Bristol, NC and accommodations could not be found anywhere near our intended route.

            We soon dumped the superslab for US52, a very scenic 2-laner mountain road. US52 eventually merged with Interstate 77 as we tunneled through Big Walker and East River Mountains into Bluefield at 6:00 PM right on schedule after riding 320 miles from Gainesville.

            That evening, members scattered out for various eating establishments within walking distance of our hotel, the Ramada Inn. Afterwards we relaxed like royalty enjoying the indoor pool, hot tub, game room, outdoor patio and other amenities provided by the hotel. During the night the rains fell as our riders slept dreaming about our upcoming encounter with "the Dragon".

 DAY 2 - Destination - Bryson City, North Carolina and "The Dragon"

             Although it rained heavily through the night, by morning the warm air had dried the bikes and the roads as well. After our group consumed the motel’s "all you-can-eat" buffet breakfast, we headed down the road as fog hung low in the valley. Within 20 minutes we were enjoying a ride in the bright morning sunshine as we headed south on US460. Near Tazewell, VA, we turned onto US19 and followed it until VA16. VA16 offered a challenge to all of us. This 30-mile stretch of blacktop is loaded with steep grades, hairpin turns, and breath-taking vistas.

            We came off 16 with heated brakes, smoking clutch plates, and physical exhaustion from the workout and intense concentration that was required.  Everyone agreed that this major motorcycling road was good preparation for our challenge of "the Dragon". We took a much-needed gas and beverage break before hitting the superslab once again.

            The main goal today was to get to Bryson City (location of our overnight accommodations) as quickly as possible to allow ourselves sufficient time to relax before we would challenge "the Dragon" which would hopefully take place in the best hours of the afternoon. This didn't mean we had to ride the superslab all day but it did mean we would have to avoid routes that would cause delays. With that in mind, we headed down Interstate 81 then jumped on Interstate 40 into North Carolina --- what a drag after riding VA16. We finally exited the superslab at mile marker 20 and headed for gas, refreshments, and a much-needed break after fighting all the 18-wheelers on the interstates.

            After the break we continued south via a much more leisurely US276 then onto US74 to Bryson City. We had to abandon a planned scenic mountain ride on Route 19 when a motorist told us it was a heavily traveled and slow going roadway because of the posted speed limits. It was a good decision and we arrived at the Cold Springs Country Inn Bed and Breakfast just outside of Bryson City around 2:30 after completing 280 miles since the day began. The owners greeted us. They were very experienced at hosting motorcycle groups visiting the area and briefed us on the best route to "the Dragon". The afternoon weather was absolutely perfect with sunny blue skies and the temperature in the high 80's.

 Meeting The  Dragon

             After freshening up and relaxing for about 1 hour, we were duly prepared to meet "the Dragon". Sadly two riders had to bow out having been done in by the length of the day's ride. The rest of the pack saddled up and headed west via US74 then to NC28 to the Tennessee border.

            About a half hour later we arrived at the 'Cross Roads of Time' at Deal's Gap Motorcycle Resort. We stopped for a brief break allowing us to get physically and mentally prepared for this long awaited event. We spent some time at the souvenir shop that housed some of the happy and tragic tales about those who have met "the Dragon". A large bulletin contained many photographs of those who failed as dragon slayers. It showed just what "the Dragon" was capable of doing. I cringed as I viewed photo after photo of bikes lying on the roadway some with parts scattered in various directions; cars mashed against solid rock walls forced over by trucks unaware of "the Dragon's" vicious curves; a police car who dared chase a sport bike in the land of "the Dragon" only to wind up on its roof in a gully. A wide variety of pictures showed riders with severe burn marks on their bodies due to the fiery, unforgiving Dragon's breath (aka road rash). Behind the store, grew the "tree of shame" adorned with parts from crashed bikes of those who dared disrespect the Dragon's territory. As we left the store the manager warned, “be careful out there and try not to become part of our bulletin board display or contributors to the tree of shame". That was definitely not part of our plan.

            As the captain, I proudly assumed my position at the head of the pack ready to lead my troops into the bowels of Dragon’s territory. I must admit though, I was a bit nervous knowing that "the Dragon" would not be the slightest bit intimidated by my 875-pound cruiser, quite the contrary, I pictured it snickering and even taunting me with "Go ahead, make my day"! Nonetheless, there was no turning back now as we accelerated up the hill and across the Tennessee state line on Route 129, "The Dragon", with its 318 breath-taking, hair-pin curves all within a short 11-mile stretch of flawless, 2-lane blacktop.

            Within seconds we were heading into the first of (what seemed like) endless hairpin turns. One curve's end would be another curve's beginning.  High, jagged rocks against the mountain's side to our right provided an illusion of safety from the sharp drop-offs into the deep gullies to our left. The curves were heavily banked and required the right combinations of speed and engine RPMs to pull out of them without going down. Pegs and floorboards raked against the pavement, a consequence of keeping the bike on the road through extremely tight turns. The Dragon threw everything it could at us. When riders approached from the opposite direction, no waves were exchanged as heavy concentration was necessary and a firm grip on the handlebars was a matter of survival in this territory. Successfully rounding each bend in the mountain gave one a sense of partial victory while at the same time mentally preparing us for whatever lay in wait at the next turn. We were reminded of the deadly potential of "the Dragon" when we saw an abandoned sport bike lying heavily damaged against a tree.  Turns of all sorts were hurled at us with barely a straight stretch to separate them.

            Between the concentration required and the physical workout of throwing the bikes through the curves, we hardly noticed the steady downhill descent.  Finally after 23 minutes and 11 grueling miles, we found ourselves on an open stretch of flat road at the foot of the mountain along the river. A quick count of the bikes behind me confirmed we were still all together. Victory was ours and it tasted sweet! We pulled off at a parking area along the river and celebrated, congratulating each other for having succeeded as dragon slayers. After a short break, we turned our bikes back towards "the Dragon" and did it again. This time in 21 minutes - having used the experience gained during the first trip to our advantage. We didn't break any records except maybe to do it safely. The Dragon lived up to its reputation and it was a ride that none of us will forget.  After a stop at Deal's Gap for some picture taking, souvenir buying, and dinner, we enjoyed a most-relaxing ride back to the Inn with warm temperatures and the sun setting under a clear, blue sky. Once back at the Inn we continued our celebration and toasted "the Dragon" in a show of respect for its unmatched challenge to motorcyclists. Soon after we all began feeling the exhaustion of the 400-mile day and no one had any trouble sleeping that night.

 DAY 3 - Destination - Roanoke, Virginia

             We awoke to a dew-filled morning followed by light rain as soon as some removed their bike covers. The forecast said that heavy rain and thundershowers were moving in from the west. With that information we altered our planned ride and headed first north on US74 then east on Interstate 40 heading away from the storm’s path. The plan worked as we soon hit dry pavement. Clouds still loomed threatening so we kept on the rain suits. If rain was inevitable, we determined that we'd feel safer up on the Blue Ridge Parkway at forced slower speeds rather than on the interstate highway fighting the 18-wheelers on wet pavement. We entered the Parkway at mile marker (MM) 383.

            The fog and drizzle were the worst most of us had ever encountered for the next 30 miles and past Mt. Mitchell. The fog was so thick I led the group by keeping an eye on the center yellow line by my front tire in order to keep from riding over a cliff. With so many hours and miles ahead of us, we could not afford to stop and wait it out, so we continued with utmost caution through the dense fog at barely sufficient speeds to keep the bikes upright. The fog cleared a MM340 where we stopped for lunch. After lunch, there was intermittent drizzle and light fog until we cleared the Lineville viaduct at MM300. We needed a pit stop so we got off the Parkway at Blowing Rock, NC. By now it was safe to remove the rain gear as sunny skies and temperatures nearing 90 degrees took over.

            Back on the BRP, we had gone only 12 miles enjoying the most gorgeous panoramic views from high up when we were forced from the Parkway by a detour at Deep Gap - caused by having to widen the overpass of US221 that was being 4-laned. Following US221 we were greeted by another great motorcycling road that generally had excellent pavement.  At Twin Oaks, NC we turned east on US21, an exceptional country road through some picturesque countryside. We made a pit stop at a nice little country store in Sparta then continued on NC18 to the BRP in the vicinity of MM218 near Cumberland Knob. This was a beautiful stretch of road! It must have been the evening hour that gave us the road to ourselves through this rural area of Virginia. Later we exited the BRP at Fancy Gap near MM 198 as we followed US52 into Hillsville. After a short pit stop, we followed US221 into Salem. This was a great piece of road with good pavement and lots of gradual twisties except for Bent Mountain, which contained the much sharper variety of curves. We used VA419 to get to Interstate 81. We only had to travel a short piece up 81 before getting to exit 146 where our overnight accommodations were located, the Country Inn and Suites in Roanoke, VA.

            It was already 8 PM and we had traveled 352 miles. We unpacked then lined out for a local Chinese restaurant. We barely got back inside the hotel before a severe lightning/thunderstorm began with heavy whipping rains. This was the storm that we managed to stay ahead of all day. We marveled at our timing and were grateful to be cozy and dry. The folks at the Country Inn and Suites provided a free conference room for our group to enjoy along with some refreshments.  Others enjoyed the indoor pool and hot tub. It was the perfect end to a great day.

 DAY 4 - Destination - Home

             We awoke to a sunny, summer morning. The storms had moved off but more were on the way according to the local forecasters. After a very good, what was termed an "upscale continental breakfast"; we packed our bikes and headed home. We started up Interstate 81 for a quick ride to our planned route home. One mile before our exit (213) the rains began to fall. Luck was with us that morning as our exit was also the location of a large, very modern, gas station with an oversized roof. We no sooner got under it, when the heavy rains began to fall.

            It was a good opportunity for fuel and refreshments and to put on the rainsuits while being sheltered from the rain. Luck prevailed again and we left the gas station with light rain for about 10 minutes before it stopped completely and we hit dry pavement. We used Route 340 to Elkton where we enjoyed a nice pizza lunch. After lunch we used Route 33 to get over the mountain where we eventually picked up Route 29 for a sunny ride home. We arrived home by 3:00 after completely 230 miles for the day (and 1,302 for the 4-day excursion).

 The Conclusion

             Deal's Gap is a motorcyclist's Mecca. We felt fortunate to be within a two-day ride of this extraordinary highway. Many have traveled several times the distance for the privilege of challenging "the Dragon". So if you're looking for the ultimate motorcycling blacktop in the eastern United States look no further. "The Dragon" will definitely put all your motorcycling skills to the test, and if you succeed in the challenge, I promise you'll come away from it a better rider.  

The End